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My Gravy Train

October 10, 2014

The Fords may not approve, but I make lots, in advance . . . . 

Mayor Rob Ford was always badmouthing “the gravy.” Sorry, Mr. Mayor, sometimes you just gotta have it.

Granted, Ford was talking in clichés about lavish spending. And I'm talking about actual lavish gravy. Savory, velvety gravy that you are tempted to guzzle like soup. Gravy that makes your lips smack. Better than crack, I say.

That kind of gravy doesn’t come out of a package or a can. It is gravy you make yourself. Good news: Even with minimal cooking skills, you, too, can jump on the gravy train. More good news: You can make gravy in advance. You don’t even have to wait for a roast. The best news: Never again will you have to skimp on the gravy.

Summer’s over and, poof, we are suddenly diving into feasting season. The best gravy is made from the drippings of a roast beast or bird. But this is never enough – especially at holiday meals, when everyone at the table is clamouring for a bucket of gravy. No wonder I have started to prepare basic gravy in advance. If I have a roast, I work some magic with the drippings, then supplement with my Hasty Gravy. (I call this combination Land of Plenty Gravy.) If I don’t have a roast, I serve Hasty Gravy impromptu – simple enough to make on a whim. In either scenario, presto, the gravy boat runneth over.

It’s election season as well as feasting season, with the seemingly interminable politicking culminating on Oct. 27. Mayor Rob Ford and The-Man-Who-Would-Be-Mayor Doug Ford don’t approve of lavish amounts of gravy. But who cares about Tweedledum and Tweedledumber? And who cares that we are talking about two different things? This weekend, my mind is on dinner, not politics. So pass the gravy. I want it, and lots of it, for Thanksgiving, for Christmas, and just because.

Recipes: Hasty Gravy and Gluten-Free Hasty Gravy; Land of Plenty Gravy; Dripping Gravy and Gluten-Free Dripping Gravy (variation); Hasty Cider Gravy and Gluten-Free Cider Gravy; Hasty Peppery Mushroom Gravy and Gluten-Free Peppery Mushroom Gravy; Hasty Herb Gravy and Gluten-Free Herb Gravy; Hasty Wine & Bacon Gravy, Hasty Red Wine Gravy (variation), Gluten-Free Wine & Bacon Gravy and Gluten-Free Red Wine Gravy (variation); Hasty Mushroom & Port Gravy, Pan Mushroom & Port Gravy (variation) and Gluten-Free Mushroom & Port Gravy

The Elements of Gravy

Your basic gravy is a mixture of stock (and other liquids), fat and thickener (usually flour or cornstarch), with flavour boosters thrown in.

Stock Etc: In an ideal world, you’d use homemade stock. But don’t let that stop you. Commercial chicken or beef stock (I recommend the low-sodium kind) is an acceptable base for impromptu gravy.

If you have juices from a roast, you can add them. To obtain juices, pour drippings into a gravy separator. The fat will float to the top and can be skimmed separately. Also, to capture more juices, always rest meat, tented with foil, before cutting it on a board with a trough. That way, the flavourful juices won't puddle onto the counter. Add captured juices to your stock of, well, stock for gravy, or simply pour them into finished gravy.

If desired, throw some alcohol into the mix. Dry red or white wine, port, marsala or hard cider are all good choices. Note that acidity weakens the thickening power of flour or cornstarch. If you are adding an acidic ingredient such as wine, set aside some liquid (say 1 tbsp/15 mL per 1 cup/250 mL) at the start of the recipe. Then whisk some or all of that reserved liquid into the finished gravy to obtain the consistency you desire.

To make a super-velvety gravy, replace some of the stock with heavy cream (35%). Use up to 1 tbsp (15 mL) cream per 1 cup (250 mL) total liquid.

A recipe starting with 4 cups (1 L) stock (and other liquids) will make about 4 cups (1 L) gravy.

Fat: Drippings from a roast beef or bird are ideal, if you have them. Otherwise, choose a tasty fat, such as butter, bacon grease, duck fat or schmaltz.

Thickeners: Flour and cornstarch are the two traditional choices. Gravy made with flour is velvety; gravy made with cornstarch is silky. Although cornstarch has its advantages, I prefer to use flour. Cornstarch has more thickening power, and creates gravy that’s lighter and gluten-free. Unfortunately, cornstarch gravy looks gelatinous (especially as it cools) and is less stable (so the gravy loosens and thins as time passes).

The techniques and ratios for gravy prepared with flour vs. cornstarch are slightly different:

  • Flour can taste “raw” unless it is stirred with fat and cooked briefly before the stock is added. This step also adds a pleasant nuttiness to the resulting gravy.

Per 4 cups (1 L) stock (and other liquids), use 1/4 cup (60 mL) fat and 1/2 cup (125 mL) flour.

  • Cornstarch must first be stirred with some of the stock (cold, please) to make a slurry, or thin paste. Then it is gradually poured into hot stock in the pan. Always give the slurry a big stir before adding it to the pan, as it will separate as it sits. Food scientists say cornstarch has twice the thickening power of flour – in other words, 1 tbsp (15 mL) of cornstarch supposedly equals 2 tbsp (30 mL) of flour. Still, when using cornstarch to thicken gravy, I often add a couple of extra tablespoons as insurance. (Cornstarch is such a fine powder that volume measurements can vary a lot from cook to cook.)

Per 4 cups (1 L) stock (and other liquids), use 1/4 cup (60 mL) fat and 4 to 6 tbsp (60 to 90 mL) cornstarch.

Flavour Boosters

  • If you’ve got giblets, use them. First, toss the wee liver to the family pet. Then place the gizzards, heart and neck in a small pan, cover with cold water, add a pinch of salt, put on the lid, and simmer at least 30 minutes. Strain, then add this quick homemade stock to your stock of, well, stock.
  • Before using store-bought stock for gravy, you can simmer it with herbs, such as thyme stalks, parsley sprigs or sage leaves.
  • Don’t forget to add umami to your gravy, in the form of lip-smacking, savory glutamates. Soy sauce and worcestershire sauce are the best choices. A few dashes of Maggi seasoning, a favourite of old European cooks, will also do the job.

Per 4 cups (1 L) stock (and other liquids), add 1 tbsp (15 mL) soy sauce or worcestershire sauce. 

  • You can stir up to 1 tbsp (30 mL) dried herb/seasoning blends into gravy. Try herbes de provence, Italian seasoning, Cajun seasoning or curry powder.
  • To maximize flavour, remember two fancy chef words: “fond” and “deglazing.” The fond refers to the browned bits stuck to the bottom of a roasting pan (or skillet or dutch oven). The fond is a repository of deep, complex flavors. Deglazing refers to adding liquid to the pan and scraping the fond. To do so, transfer your roast beef or bird to a wooden cutting board with a trough, tent it with foil and let it rest to redistribute the juices. Meanwhile, place the roasting pan over two burners, add some stock or alcohol (such as white wine or hard cider), and bring it to a boil while scraping the bottom of the pan with a wooden spoon. Supplement with stock if necessary. You can strain this liquid and add it to your finished gravy.

A Few Extra Tips

  • To darken gravy to a robust hue, dash in some browning. Browning is sugar so darkly caramelized that it has lost its sweetness. It is a colour booster, not a flavour booster. Browning is used as food colouring in everything from gravy to cake. Supermarkets sell it.
  • If you somehow end up with lumpy gravy, press it through a fine-mesh sieve. For this pressing task, I find a wire whisk the most efficient tool.
  • Keep in mind that gravy thickens as it cools. So your just-finished hot gravy in the pan should appear slightly thinner than you wish it to be.
  • Gravy can be reheated. Never put a lid on your hot and ready gravy, or you’ll get an unpleasant surprise. The steam build-up can turn beautiful thick gravy into a watery disappointment.
  • Gravy can be refrigerated. When the time comes, reheat it in a small pan on medium-low heat, whisking occasionally, until bubbly. Or use the microwave, stirring every 30 seconds.
  • Cooled gravy will develop a skin. Discard the skin or whisk it back in when reheating.


 


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